flat design vs women’s shapes

Over the years, I’ve devoured all of the style books, design books, and “how to look lovely even though you are large” sorts of books that the library carried.  I wish I’d taken notes, because I can’t give citations for any of the following.

I remember reading an interview with several super models (probably in a Vogue magazine in the 90’s ) when they mentioned that they all had swimming in common – swimmer’s shoulders were handy for modeling, because they approximated coat hangers, most off the peg dresses being seen on coat hangers, and needing to look good…on coat hangers.

This clicked, because I remember how I thought the dresses at the fancy bride’s maid boutique looked weird, until we tried them on and they lit us up.  They didn’t look right on a coat  hanger, they were waiting for us.  They had been designed to be chosen once seen in 3D, and they did not look good flat on a hanger.

Another instance – when I lived in Rochester, I knit myself a shell with contrasting lines of lace.  On paper it looked fabulous.  I’d drawn it on top of the pattern schematic, drawn from my measurements.  I was trying very hard to be more accurate.  Sure enough, the shell fit me beautifully, and the proportions were right as I’d drawn them.  But the lace placement looked odd on me, because I’d drawn the design lines on the flat, not on the body.

A few years later, I was making a sweater for my cousin.  I’d swatched all the patterns I wanted to use, then I adjusted my dress form to her size, and pinned all the pieces on it.  While the sweater was in process, I had several worried hours, because smoothed out FLAT on my lap, the proportions were strange.  But once it went on the dress form (and better yet, on my cousin) it was magic, in fact, I saw her wearing it 10 years later.

Recently on a Ravelry discussion, someone wrote that what we see is a two dimensional projection of a three dimensional shape.  That makes sense.

So – conclusion: when designing, place your decorative elements in a 3d setting if possible – or at least ignore the edges of your schematic.  When looking for a sewing pattern, curved seams and lots of darts give you more chances to make your garment fit.  When feeling blue because you do not look like a magazine photo (No offense meant for swimmers or models, I’m sure it’s hard to find ready to wear that fits your shoulders without, well, swimming on the rest of you, I hope you have a lovely tailor.) – don’t be silly, you are not a human coat hanger.

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